Opening a hotel during a global pandemic might not sound like a wise business move. But the introduction of Tokyo’s second Four Seasons hotel in September 2020 “reestablished” the brand “as a major force to be reckoning with when choosing among the finest places to stay around town”, said Condé Nast Traveler. On closer inspection, it wasn’t hard to see why.
Located at the heart of the city’s “skyscraper-packed financial district” of Otemachi, guests are whisked from the ground-level entrance to the 39th floor reception in a quick “ear-popping” lift ride, said The Telegraph.
Even with fair warning, it’s hard to prepare yourself for the flawless views that greet you on arrival. The scene is set for an unforgettable stay in Japan’s capital.
The rooms and design
One of the most frequently cited benefits of international travel is that it allows you to see the world from a new perspective. Guests certainly won’t struggle to do so here. With floor-to-ceiling windows, light cascades through the hotel’s expansive lounge. A glistening water feature seemingly melts away into the panoramic views over Tokyo’s skyline. At the fore, the city’s Imperial Palace and its surrounding gardens. And further beyond the city’s towering neighbourhoods, the magnificent Mount Fuji.
Make your way to reception, where seasonal florals take centre stage below a suspended dome bearing Japanese calligraphy. From here, lifts transport guests to their respective floors, where a dimly-lit network of corridors lined with thoughtfully-curated artworks lead to the hotel’s 190 rooms and suites. Each boasts views across different corners of the city.
Even after sampling the sights from the 39th floor, there’s nothing quite like stepping into your own private sanctuary in the sky and savouring the vista for yourself.
It doesn’t take long to settle in, with all the homely amenities that you could want to hand. Pop on the Bluetooth speaker to set your personal soundtrack as you unpack, while brewing a delicious local tea. I spent a while rotating from bed to chaise lounge to table and chair, deciding where best to take in the city’s towering sights. Little did I know I was yet to discover the top spot.
The endless views seamlessly continue from bedroom to bathroom, where a glass wet room offers the choice of a waterfall shower or, to my joy, a bath. I’d like to regard myself as something of an unofficial bath connoisseur, and can safely say that this Four Seasons offering is unrivalled. Freestanding tubs are perfectly positioned so you can soak up both the heady bath salts and the sprawling city from the ultimate vantage point. I’d recommend timing a dip with sunset, to watch Tokyo glide from day into night.
The spa
Peeling yourself away from the luxury of your home in the clouds is no small feat, but those who do will reap the rewards with a trip to the hotel’s spa. A private elevator takes you to the reception, where a warm welcome awaits. Spend some time in the steam rooms and traditional ofuro baths before making your way to the 20m swimming pool, with – you guessed it – sky-high city views, perhaps best enjoyed from one of the surrounding daybeds.
The spa’s team offers a range of signature rituals and treatments, and relaxation was high on my agenda. The Yakusugi massage promised to instil the tranquillity of forest bathing, ideally-suited for those in need of easing jet lag and disrupted sleep. Did someone see my weary body coming? I relished this full-body treatment as an invigorating and indulgent remedy to a 14-hour flight.
For some, moving through the discomfort of adjusting to a new time zone is best sweated out at the gym (available 24 hours a day, perfect for those sleepless nights). But senior spa director Faraaz Tanveer has a further suggestion for calming the body and mind: Qigong.
Tanveer offers an hour-long experience called “Moving Into Stillness”, designed to steady busy brains but with an awareness that settling down into the more traditional modes of meditation won’t work for everyone – particularly guests staying in Otemachi for intensive business trips. The ancient Chinese practice of Qigong offers a route into meditative breathing through an accessible flow, allowing the body to move with the mind into a more restful state. I found the unfamiliar sequence of movements freeing and, self-consciousness quickly left aside, fun too.
Eating and drinking
Dining at the Michelin-starred est is a must – “even if you’re not staying” at the Four Seasons Tokyo at Otemachi, said CNTraveler. Restrictions during the pandemic limited the possibility of importing ingredients into Japan, and chef Guillaume Bracaval and his team embraced what could have been an obstacle as an opportunity to rediscover the country’s native culinary treasures.
The vast majority of ingredients used in this French kitchen are sourced from Japanese producers, and a map placed next to my plate illustrated exactly where specific items had been sourced. From the scallops caught on the northern island of Hokkaido, to the Kishu duck from the southern city of Wakayama, diners are in for a sumptuous culinary tour. A masterful balancing of flavours, beautiful presentation and impeccable service makes dining at est a joy.
It’d be remiss not to visit the hotel’s other food and watering spots. Italian restaurant Pigneto serves authentic, hearty favourites including masterful pizzas made by specialist chef Alessandro Deleo. The Napolese chef was instrumental in making his favoured 0-type flour available in Japan, and the pizzas crafted from it are completely moorish as a result. In the warmer months, pasta, steaks and antipasti can be enjoyed on the restaurant’s terrace, 200m above the city’s streets below.
Fancy a ramen, donburi or maybe the home-comfort of a cheeseburger? The Lounge is a relaxed but refined spot to recount a day’s sight-seeing over nourishing bowls and delicious cocktails. Be sure not to miss afternoon tea. The typically-British tradition is something of an art form in Japan, with the country’s best patisserie chefs whisking together stunning displays of sweets served alongside aromatic teas. Here, the menus from executive pastry chef Yusuke Aoki change with the seasons, offering a picture-perfect experience throughout the year.
Before venturing out to explore the city’s nightlife, make a pitstop at VIRTÙ. Paris collides with Tokyo in this stunningly-designed bar, where head bartender Keith Motsi has created an all-too tempting drink offering. Sink into the storybook menu or take a recommendation from the expert team. Perhaps you won’t need to order that cab out of Otemachi after all…
Julia O’Driscoll was a guest of Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Otemachi. Rates start from £725 per night for a superior city view room (excluding tax and service fees); fourseasons.com/otemachi
