The “sunset ritual” is about to begin, so my sister Cera and I take our seats on the huge floor cushions that come complete with stunning panoramic views of the Aegean.
A DJ is on the decks, while a guy plays the sax, and as the sun disappears behind the headland, the light turns rose gold.
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We’re at Scorpios, one of Mykonos’ most famous clubs.
Sipping on large glasses of local rosé, £14 each, and sharing a gigantic Greek salad, £28, it’s not cheap – but then you don’t come to the famous party isle to save the pennies (Scorpiosmykonos.com).
To infinity pool and beyond
Home for our trip is Once In Mykonos, nestled on a hillside and just a 20-minute taxi ride from Scorpios, or half that from the Old Town.
At this adults-only hotel, sunloungers the size of double beds float on the infinity pool overlooking the yacht-studded Ornos Bay, and a beach with crystal-clear waters to rival those of the Caribbean is only 5 minutes walk away.
Rooms come with sea views, and the Infinity Restaurant serves up delights such as saganaki prawns on flavourful flatbreads.
You could easily while the days away at the pool, but we meander through the winding streets of the Old Town before lunch one day and check out Gioras Wood, a rustic medieval bakery near the iconic windmills.
The straight-out-of-the-oven crispy spinach, feta and filo pastry, £4, hits the spot, but the moreish baklava, £5 for a family-sized portion, is the star of the show.
Hunger gone, we wander towards the harbour, past Little Venice and through the warren-like lanes filled with tiny boutiques.
Cera buys an intricate, hand-carved backgammon set made from local olive wood at Pegasus (Art-pegasus.com), while at nearby Savvas Mykonos, the choice of olive oil is seemingly endless (Savvasmykonos.gr).
Ancient ruins and chapels are around almost every corner, too, with the remains of a Venetian castle on the headland a highlight topped only by the neighbouring church of Panagia Paraportiani, which is actually five ancient churches in one.
Buzzy cocktail bars line the shore and at boho-chic Kadena we tuck into a spread of local meats and cheese, £28, and hoppy local mikonu beer, £8, while people-watching (Kadenamykonos.com).
Feast on gyros
Fancy some beach-club action right by the hotel? Pasaji is much more relaxed than Scorpios.
Be sure to go with an empty stomach, because the tender beef souvlaki, £19, and Angus gyros, £27, prove to be our favourite dishes of the holiday.
Pair with the Beach Walk cocktail – a lethal mix of tequila, elderflower, cucumber and ginger.
Twin sunbeds and towels cost £80 a day (Pasajimykonos.gr).
Meanwhile, nearby La Cantine Du Faubourg – a luxe open-air, French-Greek restaurant – serves exquisite tuna ceviche, giant balls of burrata and the best truffle tagliolini, £29 (Lacantinemykonos.com).
This isle may have a reputation for hedonistic parties, but the outstanding food is the reason we’ll be back.
As soon as we’ve saved up again, that is…
FYI
Mykonos is nicknamed “Isle Of The Winds”, so pack a jumper for the evenings.
Double rooms at Once In Mykonos cost from £316 B&B (Onceinmykonos.com).
Return flights from the UK to Mykonos cost from £72.
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