Travel

From Normandy to Provence via Alsace: readers’ favourite unsung places in France


At Chantelle village, 40 miles north of Clermont-Ferrand in the Auvergne, the organic butcher and deli offers game, pâtés, and wine, while fresh croissants await every morning at the boulangerie. The abbey, brocantes (secondhand shops) and bar are also popular with visitors, mostly from France. Visits here are made even more magical by hikes through the Gorge de la Bouble, lake swims, gourmet farmers’ markets in surrounding villages and plentiful live music all summer. I return every summer, following Anne of France’s footsteps in the 15th and early 16th centuries. She sought refuge here in the abbey, where she could retreat from the politicking of the French court.
Anne Page

An elevating village in Provence

Photograph: encrier/Getty Images

Roussillon village in the Luberon is a truly spectacular sight. Built on a steep red cliff, the village seems to be entirely made of ochre, and the buildings radiate a warm sunny glow in the Provençal sunshine. Wander around the winding streets and take in the spectacular view of the valley below before people-watching in one of the cafes in the pretty village square.
Melanie

Fairytales and wine in the Alsace

Photograph: Xantana/Getty Images/iStockphoto

Eguisheim, 50 miles south of Strasbourg, is a beautiful old fairytale village. Everywhere you look there is colour – there are beautiful floral window boxes in every house – and you are transported back to a childhood fairytale imagination. There are plenty of cafes for enjoying a mouthwatering and authentic crêpes suzette. There are traditional wine presses and I highly recommend a trip on Le Petit Train through beautiful vineyards.
Hannah

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Otherworldly village with a past, Occitanie

Ruins of the medieval village at Peyrusse le Roc. Photograph: Alamy

Away from its main rivers, Aveyron is farming country, and – whisper it – looks a bit like rural England. But 30 minutes’ drive north of Villefranche-de-Rouergue is the village of Peyrusse-le-Roc, with 200 inhabitants, a herb shop, a pottery and not much else. But at the bottom of the village a vista opens down a steep-sided valley, once active with silver and lead mines, the former castle (taken by the English in 1163) standing proud over the ruins of an abbey, a synagogue and the remnants of a medieval city that once boasted 4,000 inhabitants. It’s other-worldly, haunting and quite beautiful.
Philip Hubbard

Matisse by the beach, near Perpignan

Photograph: Hemis/Alamy

On a day trip from Perpignan earlier this summer I stumbled on a little secret treasure of a beach town: Collioure, on the Vermillion Coast between France and Spain. I sat on the beach, a smooth, calm sea in front of me, fish restaurants behind me, the town’s medieval chateau to the left and the peaks of the Pyrenees rising dramatically on the other side. There is even a modern art museum with paintings by Matisse and a beautiful 17th-century bell tower, formerly a lighthouse, overlooking the harbour.
Bill

Lounge around in the Lauragais near Toulouse

Photograph: David Noton /Alamy

In the beautiful Lauragais region between Toulouse and Carcassonne, the bastide town of Revel, 30 miles south-east of Toulouse, has one of the best markets in France (pictured) every Saturday morning, in and around a 14th-century market hall. There are rolling hills and beautiful small villages such as Sorèze and Saint-Félix. At Villefranche-de-Lauragais you can take the train to Toulouse or Carcassonne for more to see and do. The countryside has been nicknamed (along with several other areas) the Tuscany of France and is completely unspoilt.
Donna

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Medieval magnificence south of Bergerac

Photograph: Alamy

About 25 miles south-east of Bergerac, the 13th-century bastide town Monflanquin in Lot-et-Garonne is a great place to visit. We timed our visit to coincide with the annual medieval festival on 15-16 August. Enjoy re-enactments, artisan markets, and traditional music, all set against the backdrop of Monflanquin’s beautiful stone and half-timbered buildings. We stayed at Domaine de Pautard (£500 a night, sleeps six), a picturesque chateau with pool hidden in serene countryside.
Michael

Catalan cooking high in Languedoc-Roussillon

Photograph: Alamy

Inland from the popular seaside resort of Argelès-sur-Mer near Perpignan in Languedoc, unspoilt mountain villages await. From the charming castle village of Laroque des Albères, ascend the four-mile path for two hours to Le Chalet de l’Albère, where you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views of the Albères mountains and classic French dishes served on the pretty, rustic terrace. Back at Laroque, after the descent, reward yourself with cold beer at Le Catalan, with tables spilling out on to the square and beautiful Catalan cooking if you’ve worked up another appetite.
Alice Joinel

Night markets where you can eat a Lot

Photograph: Simon Dack/Alamy

Night markets are one of the best dining discoveries to be had in rural south-west France, and the Loubéjac one in the Lot department is a cut above the rest. Wind your way up to the little hilltop village as the summer sun starts to cool. Then, armed with your knife, fork and bottle of red nab a spot on one of the long tables. The local producers’ stands offer everything you need for a cheap and delicious dinner, from grilled duck, garlic potatoes and salads, to cheeses and melon. Peruse the stalls, buy a little of this and a little of that, bring your quarry back to your bench and feast to the sound of children playing and jaunty French guitar tunes. Bliss! These run weekly throughout the summer, €15-20 will easily fill you up.
Lily

Winning tip: artists’ haunt near Alençon, Normandy

Photograph: Claire Carrion/Alamy

Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei lies just west of Alençon and is classed as a Petite Cité de Caractère. Take a walk up to the church for stunning views, before heading down the path to the little chapel (pictured) set amid dense woodland. The beauty of the village attracted many painters, many of whom stayed in the Auberge des Sœurs Moisy, an artists’ retreat that’s now a museum. There are a couple of bars and a restaurant in its narrow winding streets. Look out for hints of its artistic past everywhere.
Lisa



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