A SWIFT 25-minute train ride from London’s high-rise buildings, there’s no better time than autumn to visit the leafy city of Saint Albans.
It was named the Best Place to Live several years back in The Sunday Times for reasons beyond the excellent schooling and quaint terraced cottages that line the cobbled streets.
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The city is a living museum of Roman history, with the ruins of a two-mile long wall still a prominent feature in Verulamium park, peculiarly standing out among the tranquil lake and its swans.
And with, reportedly, more pubs per square mile than any other town or city in the UK, an autumnal pub crawl should certainly be on the list for any visitors.
After all, many of these drinking holes have made their mark on history, too, and the people who run them have some fascinating stories to tell.
Having lived near the area my whole life, I have a few stories of my own from nights spent in the wonky roofed boozers.
So, where should you head first?
THE HORN, Victoria Street
For those catching the train (probably a sensible plan if a pub crawl is on the cards), you won’t need to venture far for your first pint – a mere 100 yards to be precise.
Sat just beyond the back entrance to the train station on Victoria Street, this live music joint has welcomed a whole host of musicians through its swinging doors from Bastille and U2 to, more recently, Tom Grennan and Yungblud.
It’s celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, so who knows what famous faces could pop up.
GREAT NORTHERN, London Road
From The Horn, head down Alma Road to the Great Northern, a pokey spot with a bunting-lined beer garden that’s packed even in chillier months.
The building is Grade II-listed and a traditional boozer, offering a mishmash of spirits and real ales.
Swing by on a Wednesday for the weekly film-themed pub quiz.
THE BOOT, Market Place
A proper local, whose landlord can often be spotted behind the bar (or in front of it).
Right next to the historic St Albans clock tower in the Cathedral Quarter, the cosy watering hole was built in 1420 and is now fitted with mismatched furniture and a dinky wood burner – adding to its charm.
This is the spot for munching on tacos and Mexican grub while chugging back IPAs and ales.
YE OLDE FIGHTING COCKS, Abbey Mill Lane
A summer go-to as its spacious garden backs right onto the park and the flowing chalk river – although it’s just as pretty in autumn when the leaves on the trees that surround it begin to turn amber.
It claims to be one of the oldest pubs in England, dating back to the 8th Century and has retained much of its charm in the low ceilings, winding hallways and diddy rooms which sometimes host live bands.
DYLAN’S AT THE KINGS ARMS
One of the trendier spots in the city with bottle green tiles and a ram’s head adorning the walls behind a shiny, varnished bar.
Make this your pit stop for food with a top notch menu. Starters include scotch bonnet egg with habanero jam as well as chicken, tarragon and parmesan croquettes
Rumour has it, the place was rammed with Michelin star chefs last weekend who had wandered up after a long day of whipping up fancy street food at Tom Kerridge’s Pub in the Park festival.
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THE PEAHEN, London Road
It’s been a while since I’ve stepped foot in this boozer, partly because of its thumping music, but that’s what makes it an ideal spot to end your night.
With a never-ending list of spirits up for grabs, bar staff at The Peahen can probably whip up any cocktail you fancy, just make sure you don’t spill it in the crowds of dancing punters.
You’ll even be able to order them at brunch – flat white martini anyone?
And what about when you’re not boozing?
Every Wednesday and Saturday the city hosts a market, which was this year voted the best large outdoor market in the UK
It has supposedly been running since circa 860, when people traded out of baskets on the ground.
But today there are more than 150 sellers, flogging discounted gym wear, potted plants and second hand golf gear, among other trinkets.
I prefer the Antique and Vintage Market, however, which runs one Sunday a month and is full of little curiosities from old fashioned drinks cabinets to second hand tableware.
For something more mellow, the Odyssey Cinema on London Road shows all the modern blockbusters (and some golden oldies at Christmas).
Other towns to visit in Hertfordshire
HERE are three other towns you can visit in Hertfordshire.
Berkhamsted
Overlooked as a holiday destination, Berkhamsted claims to be home to the oldest castle in England.
There are other unusual attractions in Berkhamsted, including a vintage art-deco cinema called the Rex.
Another one of the main draws of visiting Berkhamsted is its riverside pubs – and there is plenty for visitors to choose from, including the Boat, the Rising Sun.
Hitchin
The pretty English market town is home to Hitchin Lavender – an Instagram-worthy lavender field that’s been generating a huge online buzz over the last few years, with some even calling it “Little Provence” in videos on social media.
There are other draws to visiting Hitchin in the summer, including a dip in the town’s outdoor swimming pool.
The art deco Hitchin Lido first opened to the public in 1938, and it’s still a popular spot with both locals and day trippers alike.
It was left to go derelict in the mid 90s but reopened in 2014 after a mega facelift with rows of sofas and comfy chairs on the upper level.
Book on the lower level if you can though, where seats are dotted around mini tables – you can order cheese boards from the bar or sweets as well as wine and beers.
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