WE cruised to a halt, mooring on the River Scheldt close to Antwerp’s bustling main square.
The smell of cheesy tartiflette and sweet waffles hung in the air while the towering, gilded cathedral glittered against the evening sky.
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This is exactly how we had pictured the Belgian city to be.
Our floating hotel had dropped us in the thick of the action once again, putting all the beautiful sites in this captivating location on our doorstep.
We had booked a long weekend with no-fly cruise line Ambassador, which offers sailings to popular European destinations from eight regional ports including Tilbury in Essex, Newcastle, Liverpool and Bristol.
It was impressive from the moment we stepped on board Ambition, a 1,200-passenger ship refurbished for the company in 2023.
Kicking things off with a bang, we tucked into top-notch authentic Indian food at one of the ship’s fine-dining restaurants, Saffron, before being rocked gently to sleep in the enormous bed of our junior suite.
As dawn broke, we had already reached our destination — eclectic Antwerp.
It is artistic and architecturally captivating, best explored by foot.
Unlike the more famous holiday hotspot of Bruges, it isn’t thronging with eager tourists photographing the 13th-century buildings.
Yet the streets and hidden alleyways have equally inspiring buildings, and the atmosphere is undeniably more chilled.
Wander along the boutiques and antique shops lining Kloosterstraat or head to the KMSKA fine-art gallery.
We downloaded an excellent app that guided us on a whistlestop tour of the best 25 paintings.
Then stop for lunch at one of the countless bars serving mussels, hot chocolate laced with amaretto and Belgium’s signature strong ale.
The beer is, of course, a major draw for many.
Bolleke and Tripel D’anvers are perhaps the most widely served in the bars of Antwerp.
De Koninck, the company that has made both since 1833, shows off the brewing process at its site, a short tram ride from the centre.
The best way to learn about the stuff is on a tour.
The atmosphere is undeniably more chilled than Bruges
Our guide insists that many of the city’s 16th-century door handles were designed to make them easier to open when you were drunk.
Back then, the water was not very clean, so residents relied on beer to keep hydrated.
Getting the key in the lock with double vision was tricky — so the doors feature wrought-iron key guides.
Hand-shaped biscuits
That could be handy back on Ambition, judging by the atmosphere and flowing cocktails on the ship’s Saturday night silent disco.
We’re not sure if it was due to the amount of Bolleke already consumed in Antwerp, but staff told us they had never before booked out all 400 headphones.
The party continued into the early hours.
The next morning, after a satisfying buffet breakfast at the ship’s Buckingham restaurant, we headed out in search of strong coffee.
Caffe Mundi had been recommended by a local — and the soothing drinks went down a treat.
Then it was off to Philip’s Biscuits for some edible souvenirs, including traditional hand-shaped biscuits.
According to legend, a giant called Druon Antigoon cut off sailors’ hands if they did not pay the tolls to sail on the River Scheldt.
But his era of tyranny ended when a Roman took an axe to Druon’s hand.
Quite how that tale inspired a delicious, almond-crusted cookie, we’re not sure.
After two days of adventures in Antwerp, it was back to the ship to return across the North Sea.
As we sailed, we toasted with champagne in Lupino’s restaurant, then enjoyed a ten-course dinner at the Chef’s Table, complete with lobster, truffle-infused seabass and Black Angus steak.
At £89 per person supplement, it is one of the most expensive extras on the cruise, but a real treat.
Overall, you would be hard pressed to get travel, accommodation, food and drink for much less than the very accessible price of a long-weekend getaway on Ambition.
That is certainly worth raising a pint of Bolleke to.
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GO: Antwerp (by ship)
GETTING & STAYING THERE: A four-night sailing to Amsterdam & Antwerp on board Ambassador’s Ambition costs from £349 for an inside cabin, or £759 for a superior junior suite, based on two people sharing.
OUT & ABOUT: An Antwerp City Pass gives you free public transport and access to tourist attractions.
It costs from 45 euros (£38) for 24 hours.
See antwerpen.be.
Cruising Queen
CUNARD’S newest ship, Queen Anne, will be named in a glamorous ceremony at the cruise line’s spiritual home of Liverpool this summer.
The event at the Mersey waterfront on July 3 will be hosted by musician Matt Willis and his TV presenter wife Emma and will follow a “lap of honour” around the British Isles.
The 14-night British Isles Festival Voyage will depart Southampton on May 24, with maiden calls to Edinburgh, Invergordon, Greenock, Belfast and Liverpool for the naming ceremony, before departing for Cobh in Ireland.
Catch a glimpse of the naming ceremony at Pier Head on The Wirral.
