A table of tomatoes at the High Peaks Farmers Market in Saranac Lake.
(Provided photo — Yvona Fast)
It’s the second half of August. We’ve passed Lunasa (Lughnasadh) — the midpoint between the solstice and equinox — on Aug. 1. Days are getting slightly shorter, nights longer in anticipation of fall. We’re in the midst of harvest season. Farmstands are brimming with fresh produce.
Ah, sweet, sweet corn that captures the rays of golden sunshine, turning them into sugar. Tender, delicate, creamy, sweet — so different from their tougher, thick-skinned canned or frozen corn. Fresh-picked summer corn is one of the highlights of summer because corn loses sweetness quickly after harvest. I rarely eat corn on the cob in the wintertime.
Shucking, cooking, buttering and eating fresh corn is one of the best ways to savor the golden sunshine of summer. “People have tried and tried, but sex is not better than sweet corn,” according to Garrison Keillor.
Ah, tomatoes! “There are only two things that money can’t buy — that’s true love and home-grown tomatoes,” sings John Denver.
It’s true. Summer tomatoes are so totally different from their flavorless winter supermarket cousins, which I refuse to buy.
Fresh corn on the cob.
(Provided photo — Yvona Fast)
Paul Gutman, a local gardener, explained that there is a big difference between hybrid varieties of tomatoes and heritage or heirloom varieties. The most popular commercial variety is Jet Star — round, red and travel and store well. But they don’t compare in flavor and texture to heirloom tomatoes.
When Mom used to garden, her favorite fast-maturing varieties were the sweet-spicy Brandywine heirloom, the Russian Galina, an early-season, prolific yellow-orange cherry tomato with great flavor and texture, the sweet, juicy, plum-shaped Juliet and the fast-ripening Early Girl.
There are many heirloom varieties. Not all are red — some are green when ripe, others yellow, some orange, some a dark brown. Not all are round. In fact, some are just plain ugly but offer superb flavor. Straight off the vine from your garden or local grower, home-grown August heritage tomatoes come in all colors, shapes and sizes. They need little tampering. Don’t refrigerate them. Use them in all types of salads and sandwiches because, as John Denver asks, “What’d life be without homegrown tomatoes?”
Long, warm, hazy summer days are perfect for cooking outdoors. Get out the grill and keep the house cool! In addition to meat, lots of things can be cooked on the grill: Vegetables, polenta, enchiladas … even desserts like s’mores, bananas or peaches … the list is endless.
Man has been cooking over open flame since the Stone Age, but modern barbecuing developed among 18th-century pioneers who needed to smoke meat in order to preserve it. Backyard grilling didn’t become popular until Americans began to flee the cities for the suburbs. Barbecuing is low, slow cooking over indirect heat like coals, while grilling is cooking directly over an open flame. It is quicker and more common than barbecuing, though many use the two words interchangeably. Cooking outdoors presents many challenges, because everything from wind gusts to outdoor temperatures can affect how your food cooks.
Freshly-harvested fruits and vegetables are not just loaded with flavor; they also contain healthy antioxidants. Studies have shown that many nutrients are lost when fresh produce is stored. Unfortunately, our cold winters don’t allow much fresh, flavorful produce. We have to store it or truck it in from warmer climates. Enjoy the flavor while summer is here!
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Fresh corn on the cob
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There are many ways to cook corn. The traditional way to make fresh corn comes from the Shakers. Shuck the corn by peeling the husk from the top down, then removing it. Snap off the stem and remove the silk. If the silk sticks to the corn, it can be removed with a wet paper towel or a vegetable brush. Place the husked, de-silked corn in a pot of cold water, with a pinch of sugar. Bring to a rapid boil, then cook for just one minute. Drain and serve.
Alternately, you can bring the water to a boil first, then add the corn, return to a boil and cook for just a couple minutes, then turn off the heat and let the corn sit in the hot water a couple minutes more. Either way, be careful not to overcook, or it will lose its sweetness and the kernels will become tough. Adding salt to the cooking water also causes the kernels to harden.
You can cook corn over a campfire. Remove excess silk from the tip and soak the husks in water for at least a half-hour. Roast over the coals so the kernels steam a little. The husks will char in the fire, but the corn inside will be moist and tender. Remove the hot, cooked corn with thongs, peel back the husk, remove the silk, eat the pure sweetness and throw the cob and husk back into the blazing fire.
You can also roast or grill corn at home. Peel back the husk, remove the silk, moisten the corn with water and replace the husk, then wrap tightly in foil. Grill until the corn begins to steam, or to desired doneness — 10 to 20 minutes, turning frequently. Alternately, you can husk the corn first, remove the silk, spread with butter and wrap tightly in foil, then place on the grill over medium heat. Turn frequently. After about 20 minutes, remove from grill, peel foil back carefully and test for doneness.
You may choose to cook your corn in the microwave. Cook the entire husk, one at a time, in the microwave for 3 minutes. They will be hot; remove carefully, wait a few minutes to peel them and cut off the stem, then eat. You can also husk the corn first and cook in a tightly-covered, microwave-safe dish. Cooking time will vary depending on the strength of the microwave and the number of ears.
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Easy Tomato Salad
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Ingredients:
1 large tomato
1 medium cucumber
1 / 2 onion, halved and sliced thin
1 / 2 teaspoon salt
1 Tablespoon plain Greek yogurt or sour cream
Directions:
Wash and slice or dice the tomato; wash and slice cucumber thin. Peel and slice the onion into thin half-moon rings. Add salt and a dash of pepper; stir in the sour cream. Allow flavors to mingle 15 or 20 minutes before serving.
Serves 1 – 2.
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Wine-basted Grilled Chicken
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Ingredients:
3-pound (or so) chicken, cut up
3/4 cup red wine
1/2 stick butter (4 tablespoons)
2 cloves garlic, minced, about 2 teaspoons
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon poultry seasoning
1/8 teaspoon sage
1/4 teaspoon (freshly ground) pepper
Juice of half a lemon (2-3 Tablespoons)
Directions:
Cut the chicken into serving pieces.
Combine all ingredients except chicken and lemon juice in saucepan. Bring to a simmer and cook 10 minutes. Cool slightly and stir in lemon. Brush over chicken pieces. Cover and refrigerate at least 30 minutes.
Brush grill rack with oil or spray with cooking spray. Heat to medium. Place chicken skin-side down over the heat. Cook about 7 minutes, then turn, baste with marinade, cover and cook another 8 minutes or so, until meat is opaque. Dark meat will need to cook slightly longer. Serve with asparagus portobello wraps.
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Author of the award-winning cookbook “Garden Gourmet: Fresh & Fabulous Meals from your Garden, CSA or Farmers’ Market,” Yvona Fast lives in Lake Clear and has two passions: Writing and cooking. She can be found at www.yvonafast.com and reached at yvonawrite@yahoo.com or on X: @yvonawrites.
